Application Techniques
Lips
Lipstick pulls the whole thing together and gives a finished look to the face. Nude lips complement the drama of a smoky eye. Nude doesn’t mean naked. Red lips add their own drama and can pull the focus away from a small eye. Anyone can wear red. It’s a question of finding out which red–blue undertone, yellow undertone or neutral.
Don’t overwhelm small lips with colours that are too bright or too dark. Muted, glossy colours make small lips look larger.
Always study the shape of the mouth before you begin to apply colour. Now is the time to decide whether you need to make any adjustments. Nobody is born with perfectly symmetrical lips. Decide whether you want to follow the vermilion line or draw the shape just over the vermilion line to enlarge lips or just inside to make larger lips look smaller. If possible, try to balance the mouth with the rest of the face by lining up the edge of the lips with the inside edge of the iris. Try to line up the peak of the bow with the middle of the nostril.
Tip: To help avoid feathering, use Jane Iredale Camouflage Brush to apply Circle/Delete around the lip line. When set, this will provide a barrier.
Tip: To create a vermilion line, wet Camouflage Brush with D2O or Balance and pick up mineral powder a shade lighter than the complexion colour you used. Dot the wet minerals on the outer edge of the lip to create the shape you want. This is especially useful on older women who are beginning to lose their lip line.
Tip: Use Oyster eye shadow in the middle of the lower lip on top of the lip colour. Purse lips together and blend. It should just look like a highlight and give the lips a pout.
Tip: For a really matte look, just fill in with a pencil or use Complete colour and line with a pencil.
Tip: Always take off lip colour from the bullet with a small spatula. Use disposable lip brushes.
COMPLETE COLOUR™
This is truly a rush-and-go product for lips, cheeks, and eyes. This cream-to-powder formula moisturises and conditions the skin and allows for easy application. Complete Colour can be applied with your finger, a sponge, or the Camouflage Brush.
When applying Complete Colour on the eyelid or to the cheek, over a mineral base, you will find that your finger or the Camouflage Brush deliver the best results with the greatest ease. Complete Colour is an excellent eye shadow primer when applied sparingly to the eyelid prior to the eye shadow application. Complete Colour locks on the shadow and increases the payoff of the shimmering shades. This is especially effective for fashion print and runway work. When used on the lips, Complete Colour adds a subtle touch of colour that can be enhanced by applying Lip Drink over top for added shine, moisture, and SPF protection.